This is a photo roundup of the Yamaga Toro Matsuri, an Obon festival held in August every year by the city of Yamaga in Kumamoto Prefecture. This festival is a crowded one indeed, but worth a visit, as it features several traditional dances, among which is the 1000 Person Lantern Dance, or Sennin Toro Odori (千人灯籠踊り). As you can tell from the images below, 1000 female participants perform a traditional dance in traditional garb, all with a lantern placed delicately upon their crowns. At the close of the festival, at a shrine a bit uphill from the elementary grounds the dance was performed at, many groups gift scale models of traditional buildings or scenes to the shrine, which are then blessed by a Shinto priest and received by the shrine. To my extreme surprise, as I went to grab an omikuji, or fortune, at the reception area alongside the shrine, I was told I won a prize! Which was a silver paper lantern just like those the dancers wore! So the festival ended on a nice note for me, with just the right amount of luck – daikichi, or big luck! :)
Throughout Japan, there are several national festivals celebrating fireworks, where many well-known fireworks-makers get together and show off their products. One of these occurs relatively close to my placement in a town called Yatsushiro. This is one of the more crowded events I’ve been to in Japan, because everyone goes crazy for a fireworks show here, not to say I blame them. This type of show is usually worth a visit due to the breadth and depth of the show, showcasing works for a good hour or two.
I decided to attend the event with a friend, and we rode into town on the train a good hour before the show started. As some of my friends realized after the fact, traffic is horrible in the area surrounding the event space, which spans both sides of a river and most roads in the Japanese countryside are one lane, so it’s advisable to use public transport at times like these. The show didn’t start until 6 but we headed down at about 4:30, which was a really good call! As I said before, this is a crowded event, and even at 4:30 the trolley to the train station and subsequently the train was filled to the brink with people. Thanks to being an obvious foreigner, I was somewhat spared the people sandwiching due to my natural ‘gaikokujin aura,’ holding the Japanese around me at arm’s length through no effort of my own.
This particular show is held in late summer, so it’s a bit hot if you go, but if you bring a blanket or a chair and a couple of buds to man the space while you each track down snacks and drinks, it’s a great time. A lot of fireworks companies apparently come down to the area to showcase some of their better fireworks, with small breaks in between each company’s display. It was really worth seeing, so if you notice there’s one around you, definitely go at least once!
Day two began with a fair amount of shrine and temple hopping, which I remember being very excited about. Since we started our journey on the north side of the city and started working our way down, we wanted to go ahead and hit the next thing, which was Temple Street, aka Tera-machi-dori. I’m quite enthusiastic about temples and shrines so I really enjoyed this walk even with it being a bit hot. By the end of it my accomplices were about “temple-d out,” and I was still ready to go! But it’s likely a good thing we cut it short with all the uphill slopes!
After completing our fair circuit of temples and shrines throughout the area, we started our route toward Chinatown by stopping to take in the Spectacles Bridge. While we were meandering through the area, an elderly man gifted his map to me, and directed my attention to a particular area of the stones in which a certain shape could be found. Can you find it in the picture at the beginning of this entry? I’m thinking so. :)
Afterward we made our way to Chinatown on the tram, which is a flat rate and something that many cities in Japan enjoy. Our main reason for stopping here was to have champon, a mixed seafood noodle dish, borrowed from Chinese cuisine. We popped into a fairly crowded and popular restaurant with good timing and grabbed a table, settling down to stuff ourselves with Chinese food. We circled the rest of Chinatown and found out – much to our disbelief – that Chinatown consisted of exactly one street! We were pretty surprised by this, given all the talk about it being Japan’s first Chinatown; we just had expected it to be a little more built out. But nonetheless, we made the circuit of shops and checked it off our to-do list!
Our last stop of the day was stopped Glover Garden, and the more general area of the Dutch Hollander slope leading up to it. We only stopped briefly at the garden because we were tired from all the walking, but it has a great view out onto the city of Nagasaki itself, so it’s no wonder the Glovers seized up that land immediately and built upon it. The slope is a very cool area with many food stands and souvenir shops, but also some very cool jewelry stores further up the slope for those who are interested. I also bought a whole lot of omiyage in the form of castella cake from the souvenir shops. They have all kinds so I went kind of wild and picked a few to bring back to my schools.
We got back into town and decided that we were fairly ravenous, so we lighted upon this Italian place in the mall. The three of us had no idea, but the weekend we were there it happened to be romance/couples weekend or some such thing, which explained why we were unable to get a hotel, but the unforeseen plus was that we had a perfect view of a major spectacle of the event – fireworks! It was unexpected but great as we leisurely ate pizza and pasta, and drank wine. It was a pretty fun time.
Catching the ferry home…
Then we Cybac’ed (one of the better, cleaner Cybac’s I’ve been in on both nights) it again and woke up at the crack of dawn the next day to hit the bus and catch the earliest ferry home. Once there we drove back into our placement city. Though it was a bit of a tiring excursion it was very worth it. And there’s still more stuff I’d like to do in Nagasaki!! It’s a great city.
During my first year here, in October 2013, a couple of friends and I seized the opportunity to visit Nagasaki over the course of a 3-day weekend. We took the passenger-only ferry from Reihoku over, and initially sat inside. It was an odd sensation; bobbing up and down amidst waves that you couldn’t see. Then we hopped on the bus and rode into town to start our adventure!
First we stopped at the Peace Park, taking in all the sculptures and artwork dedicated to the area throughout the years. Then we stopped by the Atomic Bomb Museum, walking and stopping through at various smaller parks and outdoor sights along the way. For example – shrines – of which there is no shortage in Nagasaki. There was an incredibly large set of old trees framing the front of a shrine I don’t remember the name of, so we stopped in briefly, then continued on our way to food at Amu Plaza, choosing to dine on the Indian food that’s all-too-rare in Amakusa.
After satiating our appetite and perhaps doing a little shopping, we headed to Mt. Inasa Ropeway, the bottom of which is located inside of Fuchi Shrine. We were good in our timing insofar as we went around 5 PM and ended up staying until sunset/dusk. Apparently Nagasaki ranks #5 on some lists of the best night views in Japan. It was really beautiful and totally worth stopping by. But if you decide to go get there early! There’s so many cameramen who set up to capture the sunset that it’s a little ridiculous. Inside there also happened to be a cool concert going on showcasing some various artists, mostly incorporating some traditional element into their performances.
My tasty steak dish~
After enjoying all we could for the first day, we set out to find a restaurant called Bronco, located in Nagasaki’s street arcade. I had read online that it was a Mexican and steak restaurant, thus my urge to go, but it turns out it is an exclusively steak restaurant. Though at first I was a little disappointed, it was a very good meal, and it proved worth the visit regardless of my initial impression from online. The shop is quite small and narrow, so it’s a bit awkward, and the food is tasty once you get your hands on it. It was a busy night there, it seemed.
A random koban, or police box, that we stumbled upon during our wanderings
A first for me with this trip was the unique experience of what I like to call Cybac’in’ it. Cybac is a particular net cafe franchise, where you can rent a space for 12 hours for a very cheap price. If you’re picky you can even purchase a shower or anything else on the menu you might need. The idea is that you browse the internet or use the computer during this space of time, but it the cheapest, though not necessarily most comfortable, alternative to paying for a hotel room! There’s no reservations though, so you have to be willing to live in the moment and be flexible regarding which space you stay in (a 1 person, 2 person, or family room).
That’s the end of Day 1! I have a lot in the backlog for now, so keep an eye out for Day 2, coming soon.
Ringside is a very unique local bar oriented a short jaunt from my own abode in my town. Both of the times I’ve been here have been in September each year, and I’ve quite enjoyed myself each time. The picture above is of myself (on the right) and some friends, with the bar’s owner. :)
It’s a fairly local setup run by an enterprising family that also owns the ice cream shop next door. The atmosphere is fairly casual, with bar-goers usually imbibing the standard beers that the Japanese are so fond of. But the unique element of this particular bar is not necessarily its atmosphere or design, but the theme that it flaunts: all things wrestling.
Here I am, in the blue mask this time, the first time being at Ringside with a group of ALT’s and the bar’s owner. Perhaps you noticed, but the women’s wrestling masks have a distinctly catty flair…
On both occasions I’ve hit this bar with a group of foreigners, we have drank and initially ended up in Mexican wrestling masks of the shiny variety. And that’s not where it begins or ends! The entire wall is filled with wrestling memorabilia, trophies, belts, all of it — from toys to autographed items, this bar screams “WRESTLINGGGGG!” And if you go into the women’s restroom, you’ll find yourself amid a sea of female wrestling paraphernalia. I’m assuming it’s likewise for the men’s, with male wrestling-related decor splashed across all walls.
Another interesting thing that I learned on my latest outing to Ringside is that aside from simply owning the next-door ice cream/gelato place, the man who owns both also makes his own uniquely flavored Japanese ice cream! We were able to try two of the flavors last time, takoyaki and onigiri, the English equivalent of octopus ball and rice ball. :)
If you are placed in Amakusa as a JET, you should definitely seize the opportunity to visit Ringside and perhaps their ice cream enterprise next door!