Nagasaki Lantern Festival

In early February every year, the city of Nagasaki hosts the aptly named Nagasaki Lantern Festival. It is the most colorful Lantern Festival I’ve seen to date, so I enjoyed it very much. And that is even with crowded streets and a cross-shaped, two-street Chinatown. The photos should give an overall vibe of the scene that met us here at this festival. :)

We started out at a smaller park area that served as a one of the smaller venues, featuring a parade of a lantern mikoshi and a Chinese acrobatic show. There were a lot of fun acts that we saw, among which included a many masked dance, where the performer changed face masks with the wave of her fan, juggling, plate-spinning, and a chair stacking acrobatic demo of balance! It was a pretty exciting way to kick off the festival.

The park also exposed us to many lanterns as an introduction of what was to come later. You really get an eyeful of color at this event, which was one of my favorite things about it!

During the day, the lanterns were impressive enough. As you can tell from some of the photos, the lanterns are huge! Some of them are taller than most of the people that wandered the area. It was like being in a paper zoo!

After taking in the show here at the smaller venue, we started walking over to the main venue area, based just outside of the Chinatown in Nagasaki. This Chinatown is a plus shape, and literally consists of two streets, but it is of historical import, being one of the first Chinatown areas in Japan.

As you can tell, it is very crowded there at this time. Though it makes navigating the brimming streets difficult, you get used to it temporarily. It is worth putting up with for the views that the area provides. Even in the light of day the sights are moving, as having a look at these creations is rare. The crowd itself becomes a sight as does the street, likely becoming more lively than it had been for months previous. Around this time we ducked the crowd temporarily by popping into one of the restaurants to have try champon, a Chinese noodle dish introduced through trade that has now been adopted by the culture here as a mainstay. We enjoyed a few other dishes too and it was very delicious! I don’t remember the name, but if you approach the Chinatown through the gate from the northwest side, coming from the shopping areas, you’ll see it. It’s the first major restaurant on the corner on the left.

And as the day progressed into night, things only got more impressive. The lanterns are naturally more dramatic at night, and being surrounded by them makes you feel transported to some other world.

The most interesting part of this display was indeed a sight that is visible at the main venue. Though I’m sure it has to do with some aspect of the event’s history and/or its Chinese roots – I can’t say for certain – a huge offering was set at the center of the lantern viewing area that looked like this:

Numerous pig heads were set out on platters in a glass-encased room, with attendants ever attending the candles to keep their flames alight. It was such a display that at first I wasn’t sure that I was seeing what I was seeing. Or perhaps I hoped it was an illusion… It was dramatic and somewhat startling to say it simply.

After viewing all the sights there we called it a night. We had seen most to all of what the festival had to offer and the next morning we planned to go to Gunkanjima, so we got somewhat of an early night. Passing by a temple on the way, we headed toward Cybac to attend our crowd-worn and sleepy minds and bodies. It was a great day.

Yamaga Toro Festival -山鹿灯籠祭-

This is a photo roundup of the Yamaga Toro Matsuri, an Obon festival held in August every year by the city of Yamaga in Kumamoto Prefecture. This festival is a crowded one indeed, but worth a visit, as it features several traditional dances, among which is the 1000 Person Lantern Dance, or Sennin Toro Odori (千人灯籠踊り). As you can tell from the images below, 1000 female participants perform a traditional dance in traditional garb, all with a lantern placed delicately upon their crowns. At the close of the festival, at a shrine a bit uphill from the elementary grounds the dance was performed at, many groups gift scale models of traditional buildings or scenes to the shrine, which are then blessed by a Shinto priest and received by the shrine. To my extreme surprise, as I went to grab an omikuji, or fortune, at the reception area alongside the shrine, I was told I won a prize! Which was a silver paper lantern just like those the dancers wore! So the festival ended on a nice note for me, with just the right amount of luck – daikichi, or big luck! :)

The Itsuwa Lantern Festival

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Over the course of the two years I’ve been here, I’ve set out proudly with others to see the local Lantern Festival in Itsuwa both years. Usually held in late October of each year, this small festival is worth going to because you can see an aspect of Japanese culture that is not as largely publicized as other aspects we often are told about.

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2013-10-27 18.16.382013-10-27 19.08.52One of my favorite parts my first year was hearing a bit of koto music being played by three ladies a little apart from the main festival itself. This year, an elder man was reading Japanese stories, but it didn’t live up to the koto for me. And for those who are interested, the festival has a stand selling a nicer variety of lanterns to festival-goers. There are also quite a few street food and goods stalls stretched along the main drag of cozy Itsuwa, serving as a guide to the event space. Some of the festival’s better photo opportunities come from the shrine at the top of the hill toward the west, and the lit-up zen garden in a cozy alcove at the center of the main street. I took a lot of pictures; some of which are definitely better than others due to lighting, but all in all this is a good local event that offers a taste of Amakusan pride. :)

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