Nagasaki Lantern Festival

In early February every year, the city of Nagasaki hosts the aptly named Nagasaki Lantern Festival. It is the most colorful Lantern Festival I’ve seen to date, so I enjoyed it very much. And that is even with crowded streets and a cross-shaped, two-street Chinatown. The photos should give an overall vibe of the scene that met us here at this festival. :)

We started out at a smaller park area that served as a one of the smaller venues, featuring a parade of a lantern mikoshi and a Chinese acrobatic show. There were a lot of fun acts that we saw, among which included a many masked dance, where the performer changed face masks with the wave of her fan, juggling, plate-spinning, and a chair stacking acrobatic demo of balance! It was a pretty exciting way to kick off the festival.

The park also exposed us to many lanterns as an introduction of what was to come later. You really get an eyeful of color at this event, which was one of my favorite things about it!

During the day, the lanterns were impressive enough. As you can tell from some of the photos, the lanterns are huge! Some of them are taller than most of the people that wandered the area. It was like being in a paper zoo!

After taking in the show here at the smaller venue, we started walking over to the main venue area, based just outside of the Chinatown in Nagasaki. This Chinatown is a plus shape, and literally consists of two streets, but it is of historical import, being one of the first Chinatown areas in Japan.

As you can tell, it is very crowded there at this time. Though it makes navigating the brimming streets difficult, you get used to it temporarily. It is worth putting up with for the views that the area provides. Even in the light of day the sights are moving, as having a look at these creations is rare. The crowd itself becomes a sight as does the street, likely becoming more lively than it had been for months previous. Around this time we ducked the crowd temporarily by popping into one of the restaurants to have try champon, a Chinese noodle dish introduced through trade that has now been adopted by the culture here as a mainstay. We enjoyed a few other dishes too and it was very delicious! I don’t remember the name, but if you approach the Chinatown through the gate from the northwest side, coming from the shopping areas, you’ll see it. It’s the first major restaurant on the corner on the left.

And as the day progressed into night, things only got more impressive. The lanterns are naturally more dramatic at night, and being surrounded by them makes you feel transported to some other world.

The most interesting part of this display was indeed a sight that is visible at the main venue. Though I’m sure it has to do with some aspect of the event’s history and/or its Chinese roots – I can’t say for certain – a huge offering was set at the center of the lantern viewing area that looked like this:

Numerous pig heads were set out on platters in a glass-encased room, with attendants ever attending the candles to keep their flames alight. It was such a display that at first I wasn’t sure that I was seeing what I was seeing. Or perhaps I hoped it was an illusion… It was dramatic and somewhat startling to say it simply.

After viewing all the sights there we called it a night. We had seen most to all of what the festival had to offer and the next morning we planned to go to Gunkanjima, so we got somewhat of an early night. Passing by a temple on the way, we headed toward Cybac to attend our crowd-worn and sleepy minds and bodies. It was a great day.

Nagasaki Adventure [Day 2]

Day two began with a fair amount of shrine and temple hopping, which I remember being very excited about. Since we started our journey on the north side of the city and started working our way down, we wanted to go ahead and hit the next thing, which was Temple Street, aka Tera-machi-dori. I’m quite enthusiastic about temples and shrines so I really enjoyed this walk even with it being a bit hot. By the end of it my accomplices were about “temple-d out,” and I was still ready to go! But it’s likely a good thing we cut it short with all the uphill slopes!

2013-10-13 12.28.27After completing our fair circuit of temples and shrines throughout the area, we started our route toward Chinatown by stopping to take in the Spectacles Bridge. While we were meandering through the area, an elderly man gifted his map to me, and directed my attention to a particular area of the stones in which a certain shape could be found. Can you find it in the picture at the beginning of this entry? I’m thinking so. :)

2013-10-13 13.02.25Afterward we made our way to Chinatown on the tram, which is a flat rate and something that many cities in Japan enjoy. Our main reason for stopping here was to have champon, a mixed seafood noodle dish, borrowed from Chinese cuisine. We popped into a fairly crowded and popular restaurant with good timing and grabbed a table, settling down to stuff ourselves with Chinese food. We circled the rest of Chinatown and found out – much to our disbelief – that Chinatown consisted of exactly one street! We were pretty surprised by this, given all the talk about it being Japan’s first Chinatown; we just had expected it to be a little more built out. But nonetheless, we made the circuit of shops and checked it off our to-do list!

Our last stop of the day was stopped Glover Garden, and the more general area of the Dutch Hollander slope leading up to it. We only stopped briefly at the garden because we were tired from all the walking, but it has a great view out onto the city of Nagasaki itself, so it’s no wonder the Glovers seized up that land immediately and built upon it.  The slope is a very cool area with many food stands and souvenir shops, but also some very cool jewelry stores further up the slope for those who are interested. I also bought a whole lot of omiyage in the form of castella cake from the souvenir shops. They have all kinds so I went kind of wild and picked a few to bring back to my schools.

We got back into town and decided that we were fairly ravenous, so we lighted upon this Italian place in the mall. The three of us had no idea, but the weekend we were there it happened to be romance/couples weekend or some such thing, which explained why we were unable to get a hotel, but the unforeseen plus was that we had a perfect view of a major spectacle of the event – fireworks! It was unexpected but great as we leisurely ate pizza and pasta, and drank wine. It was a pretty fun time.

Getting on the ferry home...
Catching the ferry home…

Then we Cybac’ed (one of the better, cleaner Cybac’s I’ve been in on both nights) it again and woke up at the crack of dawn the next day to hit the bus and catch the earliest ferry home. Once there we drove back into our placement city. Though it was a bit of a tiring excursion it was very worth it. And there’s still more stuff I’d like to do in Nagasaki!! It’s a great city.

Nagasaki Adventure [Day 1]

During my first year here, in October 2013, a couple of friends and I seized the opportunity to visit Nagasaki over the course of a 3-day weekend. We took the passenger-only ferry from Reihoku over, and initially sat inside. It was an odd sensation; bobbing up and down amidst waves that you couldn’t see. Then we hopped on the bus and rode into town to start our adventure!

First we stopped at the Peace Park, taking in all the sculptures and artwork dedicated to the area throughout the years. Then we stopped by the Atomic Bomb Museum, walking and stopping through at various smaller parks and outdoor sights along the way. For example – shrines – of which there is no shortage in Nagasaki. There was an incredibly large set of old trees framing the front of a shrine I don’t remember the name of, so we stopped in briefly, then continued on our way to food at Amu Plaza, choosing to dine on the Indian food that’s all-too-rare in Amakusa.

After satiating our appetite and perhaps doing a little shopping, we headed to Mt. Inasa Ropeway, the bottom of which is located inside of Fuchi Shrine. We were good in our timing insofar as we went around 5 PM and ended up staying until sunset/dusk. Apparently Nagasaki ranks #5 on some lists of the best night views in Japan. It was really beautiful and totally worth stopping by. But if you decide to go get there early! There’s so many cameramen who set up to capture the sunset that it’s a little ridiculous. Inside there also happened to be a cool concert going on showcasing some various artists, mostly incorporating some traditional element into their performances.

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My tasty steak dish~

After enjoying all we could for the first day, we set out to find a restaurant called Bronco, located in Nagasaki’s street arcade. I had read online that it was a Mexican and steak restaurant, thus my urge to go, but it turns out it is an exclusively steak restaurant. Though at first I was a little disappointed, it was a very good meal, and it proved worth the visit regardless of my initial impression from online. The shop is quite small and narrow, so it’s a bit awkward, and the food is tasty once you get your hands on it. It was a busy night there, it seemed.

A random koban, or police box, that we stumbled upon during our wanderings
A random koban, or police box, that we stumbled upon during our wanderings

A first for me with this trip was the unique experience of what I like to call Cybac’in’ it. Cybac is a particular net cafe franchise, where you can rent a space for 12 hours for a very cheap price. If you’re picky you can even purchase a shower or anything else on the menu you might need. The idea is that you browse the internet or use the computer during this space of time, but it the cheapest, though not necessarily most comfortable, alternative to paying for a hotel room! There’s no reservations though, so you have to be willing to live in the moment and be flexible regarding which space you stay in (a 1 person, 2 person, or family room).

That’s the end of Day 1! I have a lot in the backlog for now, so keep an eye out for Day 2, coming soon.

Gunkanjima (軍艦島): Battleship Island

On Sunday of the first weekend in February, after spending a lovely Saturday in Nagasaki city proper, enjoying the annual Lantern Festival, we trekked to the Nagasaki harbor to catch the boat to Gunkanjima, meaning Battleship Island, also referred to as Hashima, when mining operations still occurred there. You can read from various sources that this deserted island served as the inspiration for the abandoned island scenes that appeared in the more recent James Bond film Casino Royale. Others even say this is where one particular scene was filmed. Though I’m not entirely sure how true it is, if true it is interesting trivia to know!

The tour takes the better part of two hours, and consists of the ride out to the island, a brief landing and tour of the most stable areas on the island, circling of the island (on both sides so that all of those seated on the boat can get photographs), and the return trip.

Afterward we spent some time in the YouMe Town that can be found straight off the harbor, housing many cool and interesting shops and, for those who may miss it, a Starbucks. If you sit outside this particular Starbucks you can get quite a good view of the harbor as well as a three-way intersection nestled in the cleft of the bayside. I enjoyed myself considerably this trip, especially with all the cool breezes we encountered on the boat ride and sitting outside. They’re definitely nice memories to have, and I’m looking forward to making more! Here’s a brief photo wrap-up of the trip.

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