This is a festival I just happened to luck my way into when I went to visit my previous host family in October the first year I arrived for JET. This was a small local festival and we didn’t stay long, but in the short time I was there I got to experience a fair amount!
Yame is a town located on the outskirts of Kurume, which is well known for its green tea. But it also holds a yearly Lantern and Doll Festival based around the local puppet house. I had actually been to this particular culture house before when I was first in the area – our group of local homestayers made a traditional Japanese paper postcard there, with pressed flowers and pulp. It was an interesting experience at the time, and I was excited to realize that I was back in the same place again after so many years.
First, we ventured into a historical writer’s home which now functioned as a museum, and looked around his abode for some time. There was a great garden space that was set up much in the Buddhist temple style, with sand, rock, and select plants making up the exterior facade. Though it may sound simple, it was quite beautiful. In one of the small buildings set alongside the house, wood-carved lanterns lined the walls, giving it a calm, but slightly eerie aura that I enjoyed quite a bit. Then we wandered along the small streets, peeking in several shops along the way. The main shop of interest for me was a traditional green tea making shoppe. The architecture of the building was quite interesting, with a traditional facide painted black and a large machine at the front of the building. Whether they actually use the machine or not, I can’t say, but their tea is delicious and so are their tasty green tea chocolate crispy snacks!
A bit further down the street we stopped and chatted with a local vendor while taking a few sips of ramune. Upon chatting, my host parents discovered that they were conducting jinrikusha rides down the street! Usually jinrikusha rides are a unique experience in Japan, but in some areas they can come at a cost. This one was a rare low price, so my host parents insisted I go! I insisted that someone come with me, and it was quite a fun ride. He took us around the area and explained bits of local lore along the way. Though it was fun I did feel bad because it must take a fair amount of strength to hoist people along the streets in continuous motion, not only once, but for whomever pays for the service! Our hoister was quite thin and spry, so perhaps he just considered it a good workout. The last stop of the day was the doll theatre, which I believe is housed in the Yame Traditional Arts Museum. In the theatre, there is a video on loop that showcases a previous performance. Because of the busy festival going on, volunteers were on hand this time, and one approached us and other onlookers and invited us up on the stage to have a look at the undercarriage and inner workings of the puppet stage. Upon climbing the stairs to the backstage, you’re on the original stage, where the dolls are, but if you journey below stage, you see quite a different world: an intricate network of string and woodwork, connecting and controlling each of the puppets above. This is where the puppeteers work their manipulative magicks. And it really requires a good amount of synchronization and skill. If I remember correctly, the guide told us that it takes around 9 people to operate each doll. The reason is that there is one person for each moveable appendage, so one for each are, one for the head, one for the feet and hands and so on.
I haven’t watched an entire production yet, but it seems like a very unique art medium and cultural performance. This particular day was very culturally demonstrative for me and I enjoyed it immensely. If you get a chance to check out the festival I’d definitely stop by!
Tag: photos
Yame Toro Ningyo Festival
Inekari (いねかり): the Rice Harvest
One of the benefits of receiving an inaka placement on the JET program is you might be able to experience traditional Japanese events that you may not be able to in urban placements. I’ve experienced this for myself on multiple occasions at the smaller elementary school I visit roughly once per week.
This particular school, though small, has been kind enough to invite me most often to annual or special school events, one of which is the yearly rice harvest, or inekari (稲刈り). The rice harvest usually occurs in late September to early October. This is an event where we all set out into the small field located close to our school, wearing long sleeves and pants despite the hot weather. This precaution is necessary to protect from the itch of the bugs and or grasses that could possibly effect our experience. A sunhat or large-brimmed hat of some kind is also required, to protect harvesters from resilient late summer, early fall rays. Luckily, both last year and this one, a teacher has been kind enough to lend me their sickle, although most-all students have their own and bring that along. Long rubber boots are also preferred wear, as it can be pretty muddy in the fields.

The task is quite enjoyable really, one of those chores that can actually be quite relaxing if you let it. Several people actually harvest the lengthy rice crops with their sickle and lay them in a huge pile. Then others gather the lengthy strands into bunches, tying them together with fresh long straw. After these steps are complete, a couple of people (for us, the field owners, who are pros by this point) set up drying stands that look somewhat like teepee framework, and we all hang the rice on these.
My first year I wasn’t prepared for the occasion, but still insisted on participating in my street clothes. It was fun, though a little itchy. But this year I was prepared! Delayed two weeks in a row because of rain, I had ample time to prepare most of my wear. The first year I mostly stuck to bunching, but this year I harvested and bunched equally quite a bit. While carrying out these duties, I also noticed several little frogs (and spiders) had made the rice field their home in the interim. Our harvesting activities definitely awoke a mass exodus in the frogs, which was quite cute though probably alarming for the creatures due to the fact that a few young boys became very interested in their escape…
All in all inekari is a positive experience! If you get the chance, I’d highly encourage taking part in it at your school(s). Even if someone invites you out to their own home fields it would be a valuable experience.
The Itsuwa Lantern Festival
Over the course of the two years I’ve been here, I’ve set out proudly with others to see the local Lantern Festival in Itsuwa both years. Usually held in late October of each year, this small festival is worth going to because you can see an aspect of Japanese culture that is not as largely publicized as other aspects we often are told about.

One of my favorite parts my first year was hearing a bit of koto music being played by three ladies a little apart from the main festival itself. This year, an elder man was reading Japanese stories, but it didn’t live up to the koto for me. And for those who are interested, the festival has a stand selling a nicer variety of lanterns to festival-goers. There are also quite a few street food and goods stalls stretched along the main drag of cozy Itsuwa, serving as a guide to the event space. Some of the festival’s better photo opportunities come from the shrine at the top of the hill toward the west, and the lit-up zen garden in a cozy alcove at the center of the main street. I took a lot of pictures; some of which are definitely better than others due to lighting, but all in all this is a good local event that offers a taste of Amakusan pride. :)
Gunkanjima (軍艦島): Battleship Island
On Sunday of the first weekend in February, after spending a lovely Saturday in Nagasaki city proper, enjoying the annual Lantern Festival, we trekked to the Nagasaki harbor to catch the boat to Gunkanjima, meaning Battleship Island, also referred to as Hashima, when mining operations still occurred there. You can read from various sources that this deserted island served as the inspiration for the abandoned island scenes that appeared in the more recent James Bond film Casino Royale. Others even say this is where one particular scene was filmed. Though I’m not entirely sure how true it is, if true it is interesting trivia to know!
The tour takes the better part of two hours, and consists of the ride out to the island, a brief landing and tour of the most stable areas on the island, circling of the island (on both sides so that all of those seated on the boat can get photographs), and the return trip.
Afterward we spent some time in the YouMe Town that can be found straight off the harbor, housing many cool and interesting shops and, for those who may miss it, a Starbucks. If you sit outside this particular Starbucks you can get quite a good view of the harbor as well as a three-way intersection nestled in the cleft of the bayside. I enjoyed myself considerably this trip, especially with all the cool breezes we encountered on the boat ride and sitting outside. They’re definitely nice memories to have, and I’m looking forward to making more! Here’s a brief photo wrap-up of the trip.




